drink-now2004 Château Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux

Experts on the subject of soil will tell you that Haut Bailly boasts one of the finest terroirs in the Pessac-Leognan appellation. The wine made here has always been fine but in recent years it has reached a new level of excellence, rivalling some of the great Haut-Medoc Cab. Sauvignon-dominated wines. For me this new departure began with the 2004 vintage, not hailed as a great vintage in Bordeaux but bearing the hallmark of what the British call a "classic vintage", meaning a wine of finesse and elegance, with cool, sweet fruit supported by ripe tannins and balancing acidity. A joy to drink now and over the next 8 years.