drink-now2017 Gevrey-Chambertin, Mes Cinq Terroirs, Domaine Denis Mortet, Burgundy

Made from a blend of vineyards in the north of the appellation, there is one-third new oak here and 20 percent whole-bunch. The vineyards Elocation gives a somewhat muscular and structured expression of Gevrey, with supple fruit initially, giving way to spicy, rocky tannins and a tense, saline finish. Drink 2020-2026.

Self-assured Arnaud Mortet is rightly proud of his capacious, extended cellars on the edge of Gevrey, explaining that the extra space allows him to work with the same precision in the winery as he does in the vineyard. Arnaud is meticulously thorough in the vines, explaining that he loves vintages like 2017, where all that hard work really pays off and gives just reward for the true vigneron. His carefully managed yields have given wines with ripe tannins and good concentration. Overall, he reduced the number of whole bunches as he didn’t want to reduce acidity levels in the wines.