2005 Château Giscours, Margaux, Bordeaux

Wonderful, this is the best Giscours since 1970. A great waft of fruit on the nose is amply supported by a palate that epitomises the best of 2005 Bordeaux: it is full and rich yet is also very fresh with ripe but firm tannins and a lovely minerality. Making 25% less of the Grand Vin than in 2004, this is reminiscent of the 1990 vintage but is cleaner with better acidity. This is very classic, masculine and serious and makes an ideal counterpart to the more approachable Du Tertre. Once again, the Margaux terroir shines through here, with wonderful concentrated fruit and a structure that marks it out as a real vin de garde.

Berry Bros. & Rudd