Bordeaux

2000 saw a warm, dry July and August with a small amount of rain from mid-September onward. Composed of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, the 2000 Latour has a deep garnet color and is showing a good amount of evolution, sporting mature notes of fried exotic spices, hoisin, unsmoked cigars and fruitcake with hints of incense, potpourri, cast iron pan and charcuterie.

Medium-bodied, soft, plush and savory in the mouth, it has a long, mineral-tinged finish. 14,000 cases were made this year, representing 48% of production.

Lisa Perrotti-Brown, Wine Advocate (February 2019)

Experts on the subject of soil will tell you that Haut Bailly boasts one of the finest terroirs in the Pessac-Leognan appellation. The wine made here has always been fine but in recent years it has reached a new level of excellence, rivalling some of the great Haut-Medoc Cab. Sauvignon-dominated wines. For me this new departure began with the 2004 vintage, not hailed as a great vintage in Bordeaux but bearing the hallmark of what the British call a "classic vintage", meaning a wine of finesse and elegance, with cool, sweet fruit supported by ripe tannins and balancing acidity. A joy to drink now and over the next 8 years.

A Second Growth in 1855, Château Ducru-Beaucaillou regularly gives the First Growths a run for their money  Eespecially since the arrival of third-generation owner Bruno Borie in 2003. Bruno never saw such an “easy vintage Eas 2005, apparently: he considered every bunch “perfect E Some 18 years on, this is only starting to come into its own, with the promise of spectacular things to come.

There are pronounced, complex aromatics of fresh black fruits, leather, liquorice, dried leaves and cigars, though this is only a hint of what further ageing will bring. This is a dense, mouth-filling Claret with a lot of structure, a real concentration of fruit and lively, refreshing acidity. Approach it now if you are that way inclined, though it will evolve wonderfully for decades yet.

Bruno is famed for his cooking, and this standout wine deserves a special dish: a côte de boeuf or grilled portobello mushrooms would work very well.

What a beautiful opening to this, with stunning cassis fruit and just a touch of wood spice that adds complexity. The palate is graceful and fresh, with the cherry fruit emerging again with liquorice and a lovely peppery finish. This is the best Comtesse I have tried for some years and will be an absolute joy to drink in 5-8 years time. I suspect given its fine balance it will drink for 10+ years.

Recently acquired by Sylvie and Jacques Guinaudeau, owners of one of Pomerols legendary estates, Ch. Lafleur, this property has undergone a major overhaul in recent years and  results are now beginning to show through.This well-sited property has benefited from the ubiquitous but highly talented Michel Rolland's advice, plus a very smart new chai; it is one to watch for the future. The present is pretty impressive too with the majestic feel of this wine belying its humble location. This is another exception that proves the rule in Pomerol, displaying a silky, sensual texture that smooths over a reassuringly gravely mineral structure.

Batailley is one of the most consistent château in the whole of Bordeaux, in terms of its production of classic, refined, elegant Pauillac, and has become a benchmark for good winemaking. The 2004 goes beyond that and the Castéja family has delivered a really exciting wine which rivals their very good 2000. Whilst Batailley's wines are normally quite closed and backward the 2004 has more immediate appeal without losing any of its traditional, reserved quality. With a jammy blackcurrant fruit character and a richly dense, velvety texture, this is really quite racy for Batailley and will be a great value cellar filler.

Our Good Ordinary Claret is an early-drinking style of red Bordeaux – one that is versatile and reliably delicious. The 2020 vintage is predominantly Merlot, supported by Cabernet Sauvignon and a dash of Cabernet Franc. On the nose, ripe hedgerow fruits mingle alongside warming aromas of cedar and allspice. 

The palate is plump and moreish, laden with black cherries, blackberries and myrtle berries. Meanwhile, a backbone of smooth, velvety tannins brings structure and complexity. This is a great wine to please a crowd, perfect with a Sunday roast or a winter vegetable stew.

Ready to drink now

Georgina Haacke, Bordeaux Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd

This blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc comes from younger vines at Château Feytit-Clinet. The nose is plush and expressive, its bright raspberry and raspberry-leaf aromas sweetened by notes of black cherries and cedar spice. The palate brings smooth, mouth-coating layers of damsons and blackcurrants which are enriched with dark chocolate and soft, velvety tannins. This is textbook Pomerol. A mouth-watering burst of redcurrant acidity reminds us of the fresher, earlier-drinking style of this vintage. This is moreish, elegant and delightfully versatile.

Georgina Haacke, Bordeaux Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd

This is the epitome of a classic, good, mature British Claret. Textbook cassis, cigar boxes, toast and minerals are all here. Its tannins are beautifully soft, but it has lost none of its flesh and intensity. It is fantastic right now, but will last for a further 10 to 15 years.

The 1986 Pichon-Lalande has long been one of the standout wines of the decade, and served blind, this suggests that it might have the 1982 in its sights. In many ways, it is the twin brother of the Cabernet-driven 1996. It bolts out of the stable doors with intense blackberry and cedar aromas – pure Cabernet – and reveals touches of mint with time. The palate is medium-bodied and thankfully less obdurate than a decade ago; the tannins have mellowed in recent years and secondary notes of sage and graphite are now more expressive. I once described the 1986 as "broad-shouldered." It remains just that, but it has learned some grace and manners. This is a clear high point for the estate.

Drink 2019 - 2040

Neal Martin, Vinous.com (August 2019)

The 2008 Potensac has an attractive bouquet with blackberry, briary and cedar aromas that gently waft from the glass, the oak here nicely integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, grainy tannin. This comes across a little savoury in style, with hints of dried blood infusing the black fruit towards the slightly dry but still balanced finish. Fine. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 10-Year On tasting.

Drink 2018 - 2026

Neal Martin, Vinous.com (May 2018)

An excellent value for money, underratted, yet immaculately made Barsac. Doisy-Daene does not possess the lusciously sweet character of other, more expensive Sauternes/Barscac wines.  It compensates with its rich, vivid fruitiness, well-supported by a remarkably fresh, harmonious acidity. And it can be approached at a much younger stage.

"Exhibiting plenty of honeyed ripe fruit, a more elegant personality, fine richness, chunkiness and depth, full body, and low acidity" Robert Parker (The bordeaux Book,  1998)

La Gaffeliere's 1996 is one of this estate's finest efforts over recent years. The property's hallmark style produces medium-bodied, soft, attractive, lightweight wines that are savoured for their delicacy and subtlety as opposed to blockbuster impact. The 1996 reveals a dark plum colour, a sweet nose of black cherries and cassis, a medium body, excellent purity, nicely integrated wood and acidity, and a sweet, finely textured, savoury finish. The wine will benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring and will keep for 15 or more years.

Robert M. Parker, Jr., Wine Advocate (April 1997)

The alcohol this vintage is 14%, while the residual sugar is 129.4 grams per litre, and the total acidity is 4.5 grams per litre of H2SO4.

Pale to medium gold coloured, the 2002 d'Yquem strides confidently out of the glass with forthright notions of spiced pears, baked pineapple, apricot preserves and orange blossoms with touches of graham crackers, praline, ginger nut and lemon curd. The palate lends an understated earthy/savoury character with seamless freshness and a satiny texture paving the long, perfumed finish.

Open-knit, expressive and yet still packing some primary fruit flavours, this vintage has entered its drinking window for those who love Yquem while it still possesses bags of vivacity. Five to seven more years in bottle should begin to yield more of the toffee, toasted nuts and savoury elements for those who love that more evolved phase.

Drink 2019 - 2040

Lisa Perrotti-Brown, Wine Advocate (August 2019)

If the 1855 Classification was rewritten tomorrow there is little doubt that this aristocratic estate would be reclassified as a First Growth. Their 1982 is probably the finest wine Las Cases has ever produced and coming from what many consider to be the finest vintage of the 20th century, it’s little wonder that the combination of magnificent vintage and phenomenal estate produced such an epic wine. Rich, full-bodied, concentrated and bursting with ripe fruit, this is the epitome of elegance, purity and balance. No cellar is complete without this exalted Claret.

Drink now

Berry Bros. & Rudd

The 2000 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is spectacular... A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, and the rest Cabernet Franc, this effort has a singular/distinctive yet possibly controversial aromatic smorgasbord existing of creme de cassis, vanilla, and violets, but also tapenade and tree bark. No doubt the Petit Verdot has imparted a certain almost olive-like component to the wine's aromatic profile.

In the mouth, it is a wine of extraordinary density, opulence, great presence, and richness. As the 2000 sits in the glass, notes of lavender and melted licorice emerge along with the distinctive tapenade aromas interwoven with creme de cassis, espresso roast, and cedar. The wine is full-bodied, with extraordinary purity and a tremendous texture.This is a dramatic, almost flamboyant style that is not classic Pauillac in one sense, but a classic wine.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate - Apr 2003

Deep crimson. Something of the farmyard on the nose. Not recommended for technophiles. But a solid, mature Bordeaux for traditionalists that is now tasting drier than du Tertre usually does in its youth. There’s a hint of leather and saltiness too. I suspect those tannins will outlast the fruit.

Drink now to 2026

Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com (May 2022)

Opaque dark purple/black colour with an opulent viscosity. Hedonistic aromas of spice, leather, earth, tar, herbs and lively sweet, ripe fruit jump from the glass. This is exceptionally concentrated with a glorious mouth-filling palate of low to medium acidity with extra ripe tannins providing a much earlier drinking date than other vintages of Haut Brion. An extraordinarily long finish adds to its sheer class.

The 2000 Cheval Blanc is a wine that I have encountered more than a dozen times. Now at just over 20 years of age (how time flies - I remember tasting this from barrel), it has a lovely, quite beguiling bouquet of brambly red berries, iron rust, Provençal herbs and clove, powerful and somehow enveloping. The peppery palate is medium-bodied with quite firm, stocky tannins and good backbone, though coming after a vertical of recent vintages, it feels more rustic and feral.

As Pierre-Olivier Clouet noted, there are fewer "pixels" in this millennial Cheval Blanc, but you can’t help falling for its charms. Ready to drink now but will age for the next 20–30 years.

Drink 2021 - 2040

Neal Martin, Vinous.com (September 2021)

The second wine of Château Brane Cantenac (2éme Cru Classé), the 2014 Baron de Brane consists of 60% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon with small additions of Cabernet Franc and Carmenère that add depth and flavour dimension to the final wine. Black cherry, cassis and coffee all jump out of the glass, combining with a punchy palate full of dark ripe fruits. There is a touch of tobacco that provides a warming spice to the finish, while silky, ripe tannins create a rich and glossy mouthfeel. This is a very good example of the quality you can find from a property’s second wine.

Drink 2023 - 2026

Violet and iris aromatics curling out of the glass, starting to reach their full expression at 20 years old. Beautifully finessed and elegant, with hints of black truffle, cloves and rich blackberry fruits, this is a vintage that showcases the best of Margaux. It took its time to reach this point but it has been worth the wait, and the wine just gets better and better over a few hours in the glass. Highlights the success of the partnership between owner Corinne Mentzelopoulos and director Paul Pontantallier, with this château delivering some of the most memorable wines of the turn of the century years in Bordeaux.

Drink 2020 - 2050

Breathtakingly complex and vibrant nose of lightly burnt creme brulee, white peaches, apricots, mustard seed and gorgeous light new oak heralds the way to the most magnificent mouth-filling essence. With the texture of melted butter and a perfect balance of precision acidity, it feels as fresh, zingy and exciting as any wine you can imagine with a concentration you can't imagine. Total nectar. If the nose and the palate aren't enough to blow you away the 30-minute (at least) aftertaste is ethereal.

Cheval Blanc’s relatively new white wine, the 2018 Le Petit Cheval Blanc, is a blend of 74% Sauvignon Blanc and 26% Sémillon. This is the first vintage that the Sémillon plantings have come online to make the blend. Profound notions of ripe pineapple, passion fruit and white peaches explode from the glass, followed by fragrant notes of lemongrass, lime blossoms and yuzu zest with a waft of sea spray. The palate is full-bodied with an alluring oiliness to the texture and layer upon layer of tropical fruits, citrus peel and minerals, marked by a refreshing line and finishing with loads of mineral sparks.

Put aside all your preconceptions of “Bordeaux Blanc”, and don’t even try to compare it to Pessac-Leognan. This has its own gorgeous expression of these grapes, defying regional tradition. Give yourself over to the rich decadence of this flamboyant white that is at once without peers but is also quintessentially Cheval Blanc.

Drink 2022 - 2032

Sémillon was added to the blend of the Cheval Blanc white from 2018, and it was immediately apparent that it added an extra layer of interest. This is a vintage that I've tried several times over the past few years, and it keeps getting better, showing white peaches riven with waxy lemon rind, sage and saffran that bring it in line with the complexity and finesse of the rest of the (red) Cheval stable. Aged for 18 months in large-sized new oak barrels.

Drink 2023 - 2032

Fully mature (yet I'd say in the early stages of its drink window), the 2000 Château Gruaud Larose offers a ripe, powerful, medium to full-bodied style as well as lots of currant and darker fruits followed by cedarwood, tobacco, iron, and assorted meaty, spicy nuances. It's a rich, almost chunky effort with a great mid-palate, still present yet ripe tannins, and an excellent finish. It lacks some of the purity and precision of today's wines yet is a satisfying, rich, impressively textured Saint-Julien to drink over the coming 15-20 years.

Drink 2021 - 2041

Ch. Grand-Puy-Lacoste has been in excellent form over the last few years and the 2008 continues in this impressive vein. This boasts the generous fruit of the vintage but with a classic, Pauillac seam running right through the core. Once again feminine in style, this is stylish and elegant with crisp acidity and fine-grained but structured tannins; this represents excellent value in 2008.