Christmas

Francois Xavier Borie is now producing some of Bordeaux's greatest wines, expressing the personality of the terroir possibly more than any other proprietor. A fabulous wine balancing concentration, ripeness of fruit and complex structure all in one. One of the finest wines of the vintage.

The sensuous, generous dollop of 40 % Merlot that went into this I think is what makes this so exquisite and beguiling. Warm, sweet red fruit with a hint of vanilla leading you to a palate which is plump and fleshy but elegant and sophisticated. It really reminds of a top Grand Cru Burgundy from a great year with its purity and grace. Please don't be put off if you read words like "elegant" to mean thin and lacking flavour as it can often mean in wine terms. Quite the contrary here, this is jam packed full of oomph and the finish is 3 to 4 minutes long. If its a small Christmas Day or New Years Eve gathering this year for you ( or you are an incredibly generous host/hostess and having the hordes in!) and you want something that will tick all the boxes ( and some boxes you hadn't even known you had) you wont be disappointed and you will certainly have a very happy Christmas.

Simon Staples, Berrys' Fine Wine Director (November 2009)

Swathes of Cabernet fruit here. This wine has wonderful concentration, impressive layers of new oak, opulent fruit and a marvellously long finish. This is a wine that can be enjoyed in its youth, middle age and in 10 years time. Outstanding!

Fully mature (yet I'd say in the early stages of its drink window), the 2000 Château Gruaud Larose offers a ripe, powerful, medium to full-bodied style as well as lots of currant and darker fruits followed by cedarwood, tobacco, iron, and assorted meaty, spicy nuances. It's a rich, almost chunky effort with a great mid-palate, still present yet ripe tannins, and an excellent finish. It lacks some of the purity and precision of today's wines yet is a satisfying, rich, impressively textured Saint-Julien to drink over the coming 15-20 years.

Drink 2021 - 2041

Truly a classic wine despite the sumptuous aspect of the fruit in 2003 there is nonetheless a real sense of elegance. Extraordinary length. Certainly 5 to 10 years, maybe much longer.

Les Comtes is one of the greatest of all Chardonnay Champagnes, its fruit sourced from the finest Grand Cru sites of the Côte des Blancs. Blue chip provenance includes the villages of Avize, le Mesnil-sur-Oger, and Cramant; it is the best of the best. Or, doubly appropriate given its luxuriant gustatory profile; la crème de la crème. 5% of the wine is aged in wood before spring bottling and the ensuing lengthy somnolence wherein the alchemical process of autolysis weaves its patient magic over nearly a decade.

2004 was an abundant crop, but also, unusually given its volume, one of high quality, especially in the south of the appellation and for the Chardonnay grape. Aromas of pear, greengage, bergamot and white flowers prove immediately attractive; the palate boasts precision, focus and a wonderful mousse bead. The immediate impression is of freshness and vitality; this is complemented by a profound yet subtle intensity that more than justifies the supreme reputation of this wine.

Ready to drink

Berry Bros. & Rudd

Made from Chardonnay grapes from an old, 100 % Grand Cru vineyard in Avize, La Vigne aux Gamins is a unique Cuvee full of love and flavour. The wine has a very clear, almost limpid colour and delicate bubbles. The nose develops very subtly Aromas of prune whilst aerating the wine reveals notes of cooked fruits, brioche and the lovely lingering finish of a great terroir. La Vigne aux Gamins is free of all embellishments, making it an exceptionally pure Champagne.

Tasted at the Château d'Issan vertical at the property, the 2006 Château d'Issan has a clean and precise bouquet, vibrant black fruit with touches of slate coming through with time in the glass. There is a strictness here and you get the sense that the aromatics are holding something back for later. The palate is well balanced, surprisingly supple in the mouth with well-judged acidity, clean and pure with a gorgeous saline note coming through on the long finish. This punches well above my expectations and comes highly recommended - a great Margaux from Emmanuel Cruse and his team. - Neal Martin

Taittinger's 2007 Comtes de Champagne will be nearly impossible to resist upon release. Soaring aromatics, mid-weight structure and soft contours give the 2007 its alluring personality. Lemon oil, white flowers, mint, chamomile and green pear add brightness and freshness throughout, with a persistent, clean finish that makes it impossible to resist a second taste.

Today, the 2007 comes across as a slightly more open version of the 2004, with freshness that makes that wine so appealing, and a touch of textural richness that recalls the 2002. Although the 2007 does not have the explosive energy or verticality of the profound 2006, it will drink better earlier. The 2007 has been positively brilliant on the three occasions I have tasted it so far.

Drink 2018 - 2047

Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (March 2018)

Dark black currant, plum violet and spicy aromatics lead to a silky elegantly textured palate showing great depth, tension and persistence.

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The Millésime Rare is an absolutely delicious Champagne, and a wonderful example of the quality of the 2008 vintage. Made up of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, all grapes for the wine were sourced from Grand Cru villages. Initially delicate on the nose, it opens up in the glass to show aromas of sweet peach, dried flowers, almonds and white pepper. The palate is ripe with a rich mousse; it’s zesty and refreshing, with hints of pineapple, blood orange, liquorice and freshly-baked pastries.

Drink 2022  E2035

Paul Keating, Private Account Manager, Berry Bros. & Rudd (Nov 2021)

Tasting 2009 Les Forts de Latour was a truly exciting moment. The wine was so fantastic that we wondered how the Grand Vin could beat it on earth. We were soon put right on that front - however, that should be fine with the fact that Les Forts is a brilliant wine in 2009. It has a complex nose with ultra-concentrated blackcurrant and blackberry fruit mingling with darker, more brooding, earthy notes. Glorious fruit follows on the palate, and the massive, high, ripe tannins seem to melt on the tongue. It’s not quite as ethereal as the Grand Vin, but this isn’t far off; it’s a fabulous second wine.

Berry Bros. & Rudd

This wine receives extra time in barrel compared to the Meursaults. A little touch of menthol, very good energy, the stony quality is certainly there. It is very backward, but will be all there. Superb persistence and a tangy mineral feel at the back, all enrobed in judicious oak.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Though there are variations from one vineyard to another, Patrick has made about half a crop in 2012. He pressed the grapes very gently in 2012 to avoid mashing the skins and has thus managed to retain elegance in wines which are naturally full of power. His skills in the cellar have once again paid handsome dividends. A beautiful range of wines in 2012.

The 2014 Brut Zéro Grand Blanc was made without any additions of sulfur dioxide. The buttery richness of raw short crust pastry is foremost on the nose, complemented by springy panettone. The freshness on the palate is immediate and deliciously bracing. Tiny, fine bubbles whirl up freshness, yeasty flavors and stony, chalky saltiness. Tension and tautness are compelling, as is the layered depth of rich, buttery autolysis. The finish is lasting, long and totally full-flavored. Zero dosage. Disgorged: May, 2022.

Drink 2023 - 2040

Antonio Galloni, Vinous (November 2023)

Blend: 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay.

The 2015 Grande Année is a testament to Bollinger’s exceptional winemaking, being aged for 7 years, all under natural cork which sets them apart. With their emphasis on a high proportion of Pinot Noir in the blend, the Champagne offers a symphony of aromas, from small stone fruits and a medley of red currant to exotic touches of mango, all layered with a delicate woody scent. On the palate, it presents a rich texture reminiscent of Mirabelle plum jam, culminating in a finish that blends nougat and citrus notes for a generous and complex tasting experience. 

Sigurdur Thor Gunnlaugsson, Account Manager, Berry Bros. & Rudd (March 2024)

Bottled July 2016, disgorged May 2019. Zero dosage.

This is the second release from Leclerc Briant’s new clos in Montagne de Reims; the panoramic site was chosen for the longevity it gives its wines, and for their lucid nature. The 2015 vintage was vinified in mixed oak barrels – including second fill from Haut-Brion Blanc – giving it added texture. The nose is pretty and tightly coiled, with white flowers, green apples, nectarines and wild honey. The palate is cleansing, with racy white-and-yellow fruits, sweet hay, camomile and much more; it’s got lip-puckering tension and salinity. This is finely woven, with beautifully integrated mousse and minerality.

Drink 2024 - 2035

Davy Żyw, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd

The 2017 Auxey-Duresses Les Cloux is lovely, delivering an incipiently complex bouquet of pear, woodsmoke, dried white flowers and fresh pastry. It's medium to full-bodied, satiny and textural, built around racy acids and chalky dry extract.

Drink 2022 - 2037

Dominique rents this from the same owner as Vignes Franches, and the vines are also 60 years old. Arguably Beaune’s best vineyard, this has an extra layer of dark, meaty richness alongside the usual bright, floral notes.

Drink 2024 - 2031

Pretty pink purple with medium depth, this is extremely elegant, fills the mouth discreetly but with perfect composure and very good length, lightly marked by vanilla oak. Extremely attractive fruit that has not got too ripe.

Jasper Morris MW, InsideBurgundy.com (November 2020)

This wine has a gorgeous bouquet of black berry fruit, and subtle floral and smoky aromas which need coaxing from the glass. It’s always a cool customer, from the relatively cool, windswept Es Chezots. The warm growing season in 2019 adds a touch more padding to the mid-palate, and there’s a fresh, chalky finish.

Drink 2021 - 2027

Berry Bros. & Rudd

From the walled clos surrounding Château de Puligny-Montrachet, this is fast becoming an iconic wine. The deep silt and clay soils help to resist dry conditions. The attack has juicy citrus and white stone-fruit. Pleasing acidity runs right through the wine. The white-flower notes and gentle, lacy texture make this feel like a Puligny in all but name. 

Drink 2023 - 2030

Berry Bros. & Rudd

Pierre Girardin Bourgogne Chardonnay Éclat de Calcaire unveils itself with a discreet presence and a velvety touch that gently caresses the palate. Olfactorily, it unfurls a spectrum of scents highlighted by crisp apples and succulent pears, interwoven with delicate hints of citrus. On the palate, its enveloping texture and well-balanced acidity lead to a pristine and invigorating finish.

The wine's intense red color reveals aromas of ripe red fruits and spices, with a beautiful tannic structure in the mouth. The vines for this wine are traditionally farmed by the winemaker Pierre Girardin, thus guaranteeing exceptional quality. For vintage 2021, this wine reflects the unique terroir of the region and fully expresses all the viticultural expertise of the house. Ideal to accompany meat dishes, this red wine is a real gem to enjoy in a convivial atmosphere.

Derived from the 2019 vintage, Benoît Dussot's NV Brut Nature Les Semblables (Boréal) is derived from north-facing holdings. Wafting from the glass with scents of crisp pear, citrus oil, white flowers and buttery pasty, it's medium to full-bodied, pillowy and chiselled, its fleshy core of fruit girdled by racy acids.

Originally from Beaune, Benoît Doussot arrived in Champagne in 2015 after a stint at Domaine Fichet in Meursault. Working at Vouette & Sorbée, he perceived that organic growers were selling their fruit to big houses and the local cooperatives for no premium, and he set out to change that. Today, Doussot works with some 12 hectares of vines, farmed by nine different vignerons, divided among 18 parcels. In sourcing, he's looking for the second terrace of Kimmeridgian limestone; and all his cuvées are derived from a single vintage, a single grape variety and this same terrace, differentiated by their different expositions.

Drink 2023 - 2030

William Kelley, Wine Advocate (August 2023)