ready-keep2008 Champagne J.L. Vergnon, Confidence, Blanc de Blancs, Brut Nature

A gifted and well-known oenologue, Christophe Constant at Vergnon has excellent raw materials to work with, helped by the situation of his vines. His philosophy is to nurture ripe and mature Chardonnay, usually from old vines, to eschew malolactic fermentation, and to allow the wines a lengthy maturation pre (and post) disgorgement, to facilitate integration and presage a potential for lengthy ageing. A very sound philosophy indeed it would seem.
Barrel-fermented with zero dosage, this is a definitive statement, if one puts thoughts of Krug’s Clos de Mesnil momentarily to one side, of oak-fermented Champagne from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. The oak does not mask the steely linear purity that has made this village’s wines so famous, but adds texture and hints of sourdough, tarte tatin and fig; resplendent complexity, in other words, to adorn a cerebral core.