2009 Clos de Tart, Grand Cru, Clos de Tart, Burgundy

Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from the domaine, the 2009 Clos de Tart Grand Cru has a more intense bouquet than the 2010, although it does not possess the same otherworldly sense of nuance and complexity. Yet it blossoms in the glass, attaining more and more precision, and redcurrant and cranberry scents appear mixed with rose petal and bergamot. The palate is medium-bodied with lovely balance and poise; the tannins are perhaps a little firmer and grippier than the 2010 with a symmetry on the finish that is beguiling. It actually becomes more like the 2010 on the finish so that the two wines end up more similar than you would expect, given the growing season. It is a sublime expression of the vintage. - Neal Martin