2012 Cornas, Reynard, Thierry Allemand, Rhône

The vines in this part of the famous commune are over 40 years old; if that’s the right word, the soil is pure granite, and the wine is a definitive statement of the finest Cornas. Something recalls the best examples of Hermitage: the intimation of femininity behind a solid, uncompromising masculine façade.  Thierry describes this pleasing phenomenon in terms of the aromatics of peony and rose.  Both of these are discernible.

Driving up from Cornas village to Thierry’s remote winery, following his mother, whose driving was adventurous, to say the least, suddenly turned into a scene from a Buñuel film: the mists descended, and then suddenly the breaks screeched as we encountered a large black van, the leading vehicle in what turned out to be a funeral cortege. We were spared, and the audience with the magus was well worth the risk.

His philosophy focuses on whole bunch pressing, pigeage au pied and minimal sulphur and is essentially traditional; he has added the extra dimension of micro-parcel selection and exceptionally low yields, which were perhaps less popular with his forebears. Be that as it may, the 2012s demonstrate, once again, the sheer skill of the man.

Berry Bros. & Rudd