2014 Meursault, En la Barre, Domaine Antoine Jobard, Burgundy

Pale straw with a very faint, green tint, En la Barre is muscular yet also elegant, offering a huge volume of fruit in the mouth, crisp acidity, perfumed red fruit notes, cherries and an excellent finish on which the fruit lingers.

Overall yields were better than Antoine feared in 2014, but some of his vineyards, including those used for his Bourgogne Blanc and Meursault En la Barre as well as part of Poruzots, were particularly badly hit by the hail. He picked from 13th September and has made his usual range of outstanding, ageworthy wines which will not be bottled until next summer. The secret to his style is not clarifying the juice out of the press, and no stirring of the lees.