best2014 Meursault, Les Gruyaches, Jean-Philippe Fichet, Burgundy

Fine, bright colour, this has a brilliantly concentrated nose, showing power and muscle, plus beautiful fruit. It is an astonishingly gorgeous mouthful of fruit with richness, density, and a lovely finish. This is accessible, adorable, but with the structure to age well.

Jean-Philippe is serene in the knowledge of the quality of his 2014 vintage. The grapes were entirely healthy, there were no problems in vinification, the maturation process is happening as it should and the wines are set to give a great deal of pleasure all round. There is less reduction than last year, so they will be accessible reasonably early, while still having good keeping potential.