2017 Ao-Yun, Shangri-La, China

Inky purple, this is extremely concentrated, reflecting the thick skins that develop at this high altitude site. A little different in style from the other vintages in this vertical, with a touch of smoky reduction that accentuates the fresh herbs, smoked black tea, raspberry leaf and sour cherry along with Cabernet-dominant blueberry and blackcurrant fruit. Sculpted, with mouthwatering oyster shell and slate minerality on the finish.

This feels like a mountain wine, and is excellent quality, from a cooler vintage overall. Harvest September 19 (Xidang Village, 2,100m altitude) through to November 22 (Adong Village, 2,600 altitude), the longest to date with over two months between first and last picking. A touch of Merlot in the blend for the first time, bringing the number of grape varieties in the blend to five, 36% new oak.

Drink 2024 - 2038

Jane Anson, JaneAnson.com (March 2022)