2017 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru, Domaine Dujac, Burgundy

The Premiers Crus of Morey St Denis cover the width of the commune on the lower slopes, below the Grands Crus. Another small band lies just above the Grands Crus at the northern end of the commune, adjacent to Gevrey-Chambertin. For the most part they are on very gentle slopes. This appellation includes 20 Premiers Crus Climats, from Les Blanchards to Clos de la Bussière.

The Premiers Crus of Morey St Denis cover the width of the commune on the lower slopes, below the Grands Crus. Another small band lies just above the Grands Crus at the northern end of the commune, adjacent to Gevrey-Chambertin. For the most part they are on very gentle slopes. Les Blanchards (1.97 hectares) The soil is a relatively heavy clay with large stones intermixed, making a wine which keeps well. Domaine Arlaud produces a version, though otherwise the grapes mostly go to négociants. Les Chaffots (2.62 hectares) Les Chaffots is one of three vineyard sites which are classified as Grand Cru in their lower sectors and Premier Cru further up the slope. Michel Magnien and Domaine Lucie et Auguste Lignier are the main sources. Aux Charmes (1.17 hectares) The wines are fine, supple and charming. Domaine Pierre Amiot is a good source.

Les Charrières (2.27 hectares) Situated below Clos de la Roche and immediately south of Clos des Ormes. The only bottling in fact comes from outside the village, being that of Alain Michelot in Nuits St Georges. Les Chenevery (1.09 hectares) Situated below Les Millandes and Les Faconnières, only the upper part of Les Chenevery is classified as Premier Cru. Alain Jeanniard, Domaine Lignier-Michelot and Domaine Bryczek produce the Premier Cru version. Aux Cheseaux (1.49 hectares) Situated below Les Charmes on the Gevrey edge of Morey, only the upper part of Aux Cheseaux is classified as Premier Cru. Producers include Domaines Arlaud (Premier Cru) and Louis Rémy (village AOC). Clos Baulet (0.87 hectares) This tiny Premier Cru, named for a former owner, lies just below the buildings of Domaine des Lambrays. Frédéric Magnien and Étienne Cosson bottle it on its own.

Clos des Ormes (3.15 hectares) Located below Clos de la Roche on the Gevrey side of the village, this was named for the elm trees that once grew here. The soil tends to the heavy and humid. Half the vineyard is in the hands of Domaine Georges Lignier. Clos de la Bussière (2.59 hectares) The Clos de la Bussière is not only a monopoly of Domaine Georges Roumier. The slope is gentle and the largely red clay soil makes it a typical Morey St Denis wine style, with an element of rusticity compared to the grace of Chambolle-Musigny next door. Les Faconnières (1.67 hectares) Situated just below Clos de la Roche and immediately north of Les Millandes, Les Faconnières is one of the best-placed amongst Morey’s Premiers Crus. Producers include Domaine Hubert Lignier and Domaine Virgile Lignier-Michelot.

Les Millandes (4.20 hectares) Situated in the middle of the village, underneath Clos de la Roche, Les Millandes is a rightly well-regarded Morey Premier Cru, with a number of leading domaines making very good wine. For example, Domaine Arlaud, Domaine Pierre Amiot, Domaine Heresztyn, Domaine Christian Sérafin. Les Ruchots (2.58 hectares) Well situated between Clos de la Bussière below and Clos de Tart above, on the Chambolle side of Morey. Les Ruchots is one of the Morey's most appealing Premier Cru vineyards. Domaines Arlaud and Pierre Amiot are good sources. Other Premier Crus Les Genavrières (1.19 hectares), Clos Sorbé (3.55 hectares), Côte Rôtie (1.23 hectares), Les Gruenchers (0.51 hectares), Les Monts- Luisants (5.39 hectares), La Riotte (2.45 hectares), Les Sorbès (2.68 hectares), Le Village (0.90 hectares)

Jacques Seysses created Domaine Dujac in 1967 having decided to turn his passion into his vocation. He purchased, a somewhat rundown, Domaine Graillet in Morey-St Denis and quickly turned things around to make a showstopping debut with the 1969 vintage. About Domaine Dujac This is every bit the family business. Jacques’ wife Rosalind arrived from California to work the harvest and never left. They married in 1974 and today their sons Jeremy and Alec, together with Jeremy’s wife Diana, run the estate day to day. They remain under the watchful eye of their parents. In the vineyard Jacques first purchase was a small estate of 5ha, which today has grown to around 17ha. The jewels of the domaine are the seven plots in Grand Crus. Away from these exalted sites there are impeccable village vineyards and magnificent 1er crus, including Aux Combottes in Gevrey and Les Malconsorts in Vosne. Both of which are immediate neighbours of Grand Crus and produce extraordinary wines. Sustainability Jacques and Rosalind began running the vineyards according to the principles of lutte raisonée (where minimal chemicals are used) in 1987. Working consistently towards a more natural approach, in 2001 they experimented with organic viticulture in 4ha of their prime sites. Then adding biodynamic farming principles to the repertoire in 2003. They were so encouraged by the results in the bottle they made the switch to organic for the entire estate in 2008, earning certification in 2011. Their intensive work to create a natural and varied ecosystem is driven by their belief that the health of the soil is the key to unlocking great quality and producing more expressive wines. In the winery The evolution of the winemaking at Dujac has been guided by the principle that the largest imprint on the wines should be from the vineyards themselves. The approach is all about simplicity. The use of whole bunches in fermentation is a distinctive feature here and something for which Jacques has been a leading advocate. Jeremy feels that they add complexity and give silkier tannins, but they must be ripe so the approach is carefully adjusted according to the vintage. In the winery they have sought to reduce manipulation wherever possible. After crushing the must is gravity fed into the cellar, avoiding the need for pumping which can exert too much force on the nascent wine. They have also been able to regulate alcohol and malolactic fermentations more precisely with improved temperature control. Dujac’s wines are not renowned as the most powerful and nor do they want them to be. These are wines of polished finesse and restraint, elegant aromatics, and depth of fruit. They are nothing short of beguiling.

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or. Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.

The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.