2019 Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Domaine de Montille, Burgundy

From the small block separated from the main vineyard, immediately above Le Cailleret from which it was created in 1955, and the most northerly plot of Chevalier. This is buzzing: Chevalier often feels tighter and less opulent than Le Montrachet, as is the case here, but the vintage’s freshness gives an irresistible dynamism to match the wine’s intensity. Drink 2028-2045.