2019 Morey-St Denis, Domaine des Lambrays, Burgundy

The Premiers Crus of Morey St Denis cover the width of the commune on the lower slopes, below the Grands Crus. Another small band lies just above the Grands Crus at the northern end of the commune, adjacent to Gevrey-Chambertin. For the most part they are on very gentle slopes. This appellation includes 20 Premiers Crus Climats, from Les Blanchards to Clos de la Bussière.

The Premiers Crus of Morey St Denis cover the width of the commune on the lower slopes, below the Grands Crus. Another small band lies just above the Grands Crus at the northern end of the commune, adjacent to Gevrey-Chambertin. For the most part they are on very gentle slopes. Les Blanchards (1.97 hectares) The soil is a relatively heavy clay with large stones intermixed, making a wine which keeps well. Domaine Arlaud produces a version, though otherwise the grapes mostly go to négociants. Les Chaffots (2.62 hectares) Les Chaffots is one of three vineyard sites which are classified as Grand Cru in their lower sectors and Premier Cru further up the slope. Michel Magnien and Domaine Lucie et Auguste Lignier are the main sources. Aux Charmes (1.17 hectares) The wines are fine, supple and charming. Domaine Pierre Amiot is a good source.

Les Charrières (2.27 hectares) Situated below Clos de la Roche and immediately south of Clos des Ormes. The only bottling in fact comes from outside the village, being that of Alain Michelot in Nuits St Georges. Les Chenevery (1.09 hectares) Situated below Les Millandes and Les Faconnières, only the upper part of Les Chenevery is classified as Premier Cru. Alain Jeanniard, Domaine Lignier-Michelot and Domaine Bryczek produce the Premier Cru version. Aux Cheseaux (1.49 hectares) Situated below Les Charmes on the Gevrey edge of Morey, only the upper part of Aux Cheseaux is classified as Premier Cru. Producers include Domaines Arlaud (Premier Cru) and Louis Rémy (village AOC). Clos Baulet (0.87 hectares) This tiny Premier Cru, named for a former owner, lies just below the buildings of Domaine des Lambrays. Frédéric Magnien and Étienne Cosson bottle it on its own.

Clos des Ormes (3.15 hectares) Located below Clos de la Roche on the Gevrey side of the village, this was named for the elm trees that once grew here. The soil tends to the heavy and humid. Half the vineyard is in the hands of Domaine Georges Lignier. Clos de la Bussière (2.59 hectares) The Clos de la Bussière is not only a monopoly of Domaine Georges Roumier. The slope is gentle and the largely red clay soil makes it a typical Morey St Denis wine style, with an element of rusticity compared to the grace of Chambolle-Musigny next door. Les Faconnières (1.67 hectares) Situated just below Clos de la Roche and immediately north of Les Millandes, Les Faconnières is one of the best-placed amongst Morey’s Premiers Crus. Producers include Domaine Hubert Lignier and Domaine Virgile Lignier-Michelot.

Les Millandes (4.20 hectares) Situated in the middle of the village, underneath Clos de la Roche, Les Millandes is a rightly well-regarded Morey Premier Cru, with a number of leading domaines making very good wine. For example, Domaine Arlaud, Domaine Pierre Amiot, Domaine Heresztyn, Domaine Christian Sérafin. Les Ruchots (2.58 hectares) Well situated between Clos de la Bussière below and Clos de Tart above, on the Chambolle side of Morey. Les Ruchots is one of the Morey's most appealing Premier Cru vineyards. Domaines Arlaud and Pierre Amiot are good sources. Other Premier Crus Les Genavrières (1.19 hectares), Clos Sorbé (3.55 hectares), Côte Rôtie (1.23 hectares), Les Gruenchers (0.51 hectares), Les Monts- Luisants (5.39 hectares), La Riotte (2.45 hectares), Les Sorbès (2.68 hectares), Le Village (0.90 hectares)

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or. Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.

The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.