2022 Moulin-à-Vent, Les Vérillats, Domaine de Vernus, Beaujolais

Located within the Beaujolais region of France, Moulin-à-Vent is known for producing robust and age-worthy red wines made from the Gamay grape variety. The region's unique terroir, characterised by granite soils and a cooler climate, imparts distinctive mineral and floral notes to the wines. The wines are often described as having a rich, full-bodied character with firm tannins and excellent ageing potential.

Known as the ‘King of Beaujolais’ for its power, structure and longevity, Moulin-à-Vent is the most atypical of all the Beaujolais Crus, even if it is potentially the best. Its style is the antithesis of light, fluffy Beaujolais, and when fully mature (often at 10 years old or more) it resembles more a fine Burgundy, or even a Rhône, than Beaujolais. Named after the local windmill (which translates as moulin-à-vent in French) Moulin-à-Vent is a real vindication of the principle of ‘terroir’. Moulin-à-Vent's neighbour Fleurie produces perfumed, silky, approachable wines, while Moulin-à-Vent, using the same grape (100% Gamay) and broadly the same vinification, makes wines that are meaty, tannic and intense, and need 2-3 years to mature. The only possible explanation, it seems, is the high proportion of iron and manganese in Moulin-à-Vent’s soil. Moulin-à-Vent tends to be most expensive of the Beaujolais Crus, although happily it is home to a number of very fine producers, so there is plenty for wine lovers to choose from.

The Domaine de Vernus is a new estate created in 2019, and owned by Frédéric Jametton, an ex-insurance broker. The estate is in the heart of the vineyards of the Régnié-Durette municipality. The property is steeped in history and is located on the heights near the Cadole and Vergers plots. It has a panoramic view of Mont Brouilly and the hilly Beaujolais countryside.

Domaine de Vernus is run by famous consultant winemaker, Guillaume Rouget, son of Emmanuel Rouget. Producing red, mostly Crus, from their 12 hectares of vines and a sustainable approach to viticulture.

The philosophy of Domaine de Vernus is right out of the Burgundian playbook: Seek out small plots of old goblet vines within the finest Crus, eschew chemicals, restore soil health, and harvest at lower yields. In the winery, they destem depending on the character of the vintage, ferment in stainless steel, and then mature the wines in Burgundian oak barrels.

A French variety planted predominately in Beaujolais where it is the grape behind everything from light and often acidic Beaujolais Nouveau through to the more serious and well-structured wines from the 10 cru villages. It takes its name from a hamlet just outside Chassagne-Montrachet and was at one stage widely planted on the Côte d`Or. However it was gradually phased out due to its poor yield and supposed poor quality of its wines.

The majority of Gamay wines in Beaujolais are labelled as Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages and are deliciously juicy, easy drinking, gulpable wines. Of more interest are the Cru wines from the 10 villages in the north of the region where the soil is predominantly granitic schist and where the vines are planted on gently undulating slopes. These can be well-structured, intensely perfumed wines, redolent of ripe black fruits and, while delicious young, will reward medium term cellaring. Gamay is also grown in the Touraine region of the Loire where it produces soft, well-balanced, gluggable wines for drinking young.