Berrys' Spy, 5-year-old, Dry Madeira, 19%

Berrys Erevamped Madeira range is now available in the popular 50cl format. The range of four covers the gamut of styles, and all wines have been up-graded from 3 and 5 year old to the 5 Year -Old Premium category. All, most importantly, have been matured by the superior 'canteiro' method, whereby the ageing is achieved naturally by allowing the casks to mature in the lofts of the lodges.

Berrys' ""Ship Series"" of Madeiras reflects the practice, common until the mid 19th century, of naming wines after the ships that carried them. The Spy was a sloop from Bermuda, carrying grain to Madeira and wine back to the West Indies until shipwrecked off Funchal in 1714. Spy 5-year-old is the driest Madeira in Berrys' Own range; it has a pale topaz colour with golden highlights, a characterisitc bouquet of dried fruit and old school libraries, then an attractive 'burnt' flavour, which in turn belies an astonishing freshness on the finish. A great aperitif.

Simon Field, MW - Wine Buyer